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This page is to help you with questions you may have about the care and feeding of your bunny, for both long term and short term.
What You Should Know for when you first bring home your new bunny:
Young bunnies tend to have a sensitive digestion system and when their food is suddenly changed it can cause them to have an upset stomach or have diarrhea. I will send you home with a bag of starter food to mix into the feed you will be giving them to make the switch of food easier on their little stomachs.
We also suggest that you allow the bunny to feed heavily on timothy hay and/or orchard grass for the first week or so. It is very healthy for them and will help calm them down with the move to a new home.
Make sure you include a water bowl (crock) in the bunnies cage until you know that the bunny knows how to drink from a water bottle. If you want to stick with using a crock that is fine also but if you choose to use a water bottle for your bunny make sure you see that they are using the water bottle, some smaller bunnies have trouble drinking from water bottles.
When you first bring your bunny home do not let them room around outside of their cage for the first two weeks, for two reasons:
1) During the rehoming process the bunny's immune system will be weak do to stress, this makes it a lot easier for him/her to pick up illnesses during the first two weeks.
2) Giving your new bunny to much freedom can make him/her more independent, which will not make for as good of a pet, you want to make sure you form a good bond with your bunny. During the first two weeks if your bunny is out of the cage he/she should be with you and/or being handled by you.
We also suggest that you allow the bunny to feed heavily on timothy hay and/or orchard grass for the first week or so. It is very healthy for them and will help calm them down with the move to a new home.
Make sure you include a water bowl (crock) in the bunnies cage until you know that the bunny knows how to drink from a water bottle. If you want to stick with using a crock that is fine also but if you choose to use a water bottle for your bunny make sure you see that they are using the water bottle, some smaller bunnies have trouble drinking from water bottles.
When you first bring your bunny home do not let them room around outside of their cage for the first two weeks, for two reasons:
1) During the rehoming process the bunny's immune system will be weak do to stress, this makes it a lot easier for him/her to pick up illnesses during the first two weeks.
2) Giving your new bunny to much freedom can make him/her more independent, which will not make for as good of a pet, you want to make sure you form a good bond with your bunny. During the first two weeks if your bunny is out of the cage he/she should be with you and/or being handled by you.
Feeding and Giving your bunny water:
Pellet feed:
Adults: 1oz per lb of body weight
Netherland Dwarfs or bunnies two pounds and under: 1/4 cup daily
Holland Lops and Lionheads/ bunnnies 2.5-4 lbs: 1/2 cup daily
For babies double the amount of feed for the first three months, if babies seem satisfied with the adult amount of food that is also fine.
For the winter months the feed can be increased by half the usual amount.
It is important to measure out the amount of food so that you can tell your bunny is eating the proper amount and if he/she isn't then something may be wrong. This will help you catch any problems in feeding habits before its to late.
Hay is an important part of a bunny's diet. We use either timothy hay or orchard grass hay, I personally like to mix the two hay types to provide the bunnies with more fiber and nutrients. Unlike the pellets, the bunnies can have as much hay as they want. I suggest about three good size handfuls of hay a week or more. Don't use alfalfa because too much is hot on their digestive system and can be fatal for the bunny.
Your bunny should receive fresh water daily. A rabbit will not drink warm water, so make sure their water is nice and cold.
Using a water crock that attaches to the cage will make it easier to throw in an ice cube on hot days if needed to cool their water.
Adults: 1oz per lb of body weight
Netherland Dwarfs or bunnies two pounds and under: 1/4 cup daily
Holland Lops and Lionheads/ bunnnies 2.5-4 lbs: 1/2 cup daily
For babies double the amount of feed for the first three months, if babies seem satisfied with the adult amount of food that is also fine.
For the winter months the feed can be increased by half the usual amount.
It is important to measure out the amount of food so that you can tell your bunny is eating the proper amount and if he/she isn't then something may be wrong. This will help you catch any problems in feeding habits before its to late.
Hay is an important part of a bunny's diet. We use either timothy hay or orchard grass hay, I personally like to mix the two hay types to provide the bunnies with more fiber and nutrients. Unlike the pellets, the bunnies can have as much hay as they want. I suggest about three good size handfuls of hay a week or more. Don't use alfalfa because too much is hot on their digestive system and can be fatal for the bunny.
Your bunny should receive fresh water daily. A rabbit will not drink warm water, so make sure their water is nice and cold.
Using a water crock that attaches to the cage will make it easier to throw in an ice cube on hot days if needed to cool their water.
Treats:
*treats should never be given in place of proper rabbit feed*
You have to be careful when giving your bunnies treats, as you don't want to mess up their sensitive tummies. You don't want to risk the health of your bunny, so try to stick to the following treats in moderation.
1) Timothy hay and/or orchard grass: this unlike other treats can be given to your bunny as much as they want. You can place a pile on top of their cage and allow them to pull down as much as they want.
2)Oatmeal: We like to sprinkle a small amount on top of my bunnies food at night as a treat. Oatmeal is very good for their skin, fur and helps nursing mothers and developing babies.
3)Watermelon rines can also be given every once and awhile.
4) Wheat grass: bunnies love to eat wheat grass but it can only be given in small supply or it will cause diarrhea.
5) Bunnies also love to chew on small fruit tree branches, you can keep a small fruit tree or willow tree branch in their cage.
6) Fresh Vegetables: Carrots and Spinach can also be a good treat for bunnies in small supply, make sure the vegetables you give your bunny are organic because pesticides can be deadly to you bunny.
*NEVER give your bunny broccoli as it is deadly to them*
You have to be careful when giving your bunnies treats, as you don't want to mess up their sensitive tummies. You don't want to risk the health of your bunny, so try to stick to the following treats in moderation.
1) Timothy hay and/or orchard grass: this unlike other treats can be given to your bunny as much as they want. You can place a pile on top of their cage and allow them to pull down as much as they want.
2)Oatmeal: We like to sprinkle a small amount on top of my bunnies food at night as a treat. Oatmeal is very good for their skin, fur and helps nursing mothers and developing babies.
3)Watermelon rines can also be given every once and awhile.
4) Wheat grass: bunnies love to eat wheat grass but it can only be given in small supply or it will cause diarrhea.
5) Bunnies also love to chew on small fruit tree branches, you can keep a small fruit tree or willow tree branch in their cage.
6) Fresh Vegetables: Carrots and Spinach can also be a good treat for bunnies in small supply, make sure the vegetables you give your bunny are organic because pesticides can be deadly to you bunny.
*NEVER give your bunny broccoli as it is deadly to them*
Diarrhea:
Bunnies can sometimes develop diarrhea from the stress of moving into a new home, Being weaned (leaving mom), leaving a litter mate ( a bunny your bunny had bonded with), or from eating to many treats or eating the wrong kind of treats. Diarrhea can be fatal for baby bunnies; however, if it is caught in time it should be easily fixed. Simply take away your bunnies regular pellet food for 24 hours and allow him/her to feed on only timothy hay and/or orchard grass and sprinkle some plain oatmeal oats on top of the hay. You can also give your bunny some green tea to drink instead of water and the diarrhea should stop fairly quick.
If you follow the beginning feed instructions we provided for first bringing your bunny home this most likely will not be a problem as those instructions are meant to prevent any diarrhea from happening.
If you follow the beginning feed instructions we provided for first bringing your bunny home this most likely will not be a problem as those instructions are meant to prevent any diarrhea from happening.
Social Life:
Rabbits are very social animals and love to have company. If your going to be away from home frequently it may be best to get two rabbits ;however, I don't recommend housing two rabbits together. It is best to get two separate cages and place them together so the bunnies can see each other and have the company but won't be inclined to fight. Don't house two males together, males are very likely to fight with each other. Sometimes this can be avoided by bonding the two bunnies at a young age but we always recommend having two cage set ups in case separation is required. Another idea is to purchase a bunny harness and carrier that way you can travel with your bunny, this will allow your bunny to have more social experiences and allow you to form a closer bond with each other.
Caging Options:
If you decide to house your bunny outdoors I suggest the use of a hutch. Make sure you purchase a hutch that will protect your bunny from both hot and cold weather, also if you can find a hutch with a built in nest box that is ideal. A hutch around two feet by two feet is big enough to house 1 or even 2 bunnies in the same cage if they are a small or medium breed.
If housing your bunnies inside then a hutch is not necessary, a cage on a stand would work just fine but one thing that you want to make sure of no matter if your housing your bunny outside or inside is that the cage/hutch has a wire bottom. You don't want a solid floor because this leaves the rabbits sitting in his/her own waste all day. This will make your bunny dirty and can cause them to get sick. With using a wire bottom cage you do have to be aware of sore hocks (inflamed, ulcerated areas that can form on the back of the foot or ankle from the bunny sitting on the wire bottom to long), to prevent this place a nesting box in your bunnies hutch/cage to allow your bunny to rest his/her feet. I recommend a wood nest box as this gives your bunny something to chew on as well.
If you do decide to house your bunny in a solid bottom cage/hutch make sure you litter box train your rabbit so he/she isn't sitting in their own waste. Rabbits are easy to litter box train, place a litter pan in the corner of the cage where your bunny seems to be doing most of his/her urinating and droppings. If you place some of the rabbits droppings inside the litter box this will help your bunny get the idea. If your rabbit seems to have trouble learning to use the litter box spaying or neutering your may help you get better results.
If housing your bunnies inside then a hutch is not necessary, a cage on a stand would work just fine but one thing that you want to make sure of no matter if your housing your bunny outside or inside is that the cage/hutch has a wire bottom. You don't want a solid floor because this leaves the rabbits sitting in his/her own waste all day. This will make your bunny dirty and can cause them to get sick. With using a wire bottom cage you do have to be aware of sore hocks (inflamed, ulcerated areas that can form on the back of the foot or ankle from the bunny sitting on the wire bottom to long), to prevent this place a nesting box in your bunnies hutch/cage to allow your bunny to rest his/her feet. I recommend a wood nest box as this gives your bunny something to chew on as well.
If you do decide to house your bunny in a solid bottom cage/hutch make sure you litter box train your rabbit so he/she isn't sitting in their own waste. Rabbits are easy to litter box train, place a litter pan in the corner of the cage where your bunny seems to be doing most of his/her urinating and droppings. If you place some of the rabbits droppings inside the litter box this will help your bunny get the idea. If your rabbit seems to have trouble learning to use the litter box spaying or neutering your may help you get better results.
What to Know if your bunny is outdoors:
During the summertime make sure your bunny is keep in a well ventilated area, you have to make sure your bunny doesn't overheat. Keep your bunny out of direct sunlight at all times. Bunnies can overheat very easily on a hot day. During really hot days it is a good idea to hook up a mister system to your hose to cool down the hutch for your bunny. A suggestion is to hook the misters up so that the front of the hutch gets wet but not the back. This way the bunnies can lick up the water or lay against the wire to cool down and get a little wet when they choose. Try and make sure that the nest box in the cage doesn't get wet that way the bunny has a dry place to go if he/she gets to wet. During hot days you also need to make sure you place ice cubes in your bunnies water so it stays cold. On days that it hits 100+ degrees try to bring your bunny in for the day and put him/her back outside in the evening when it cools down.
During wintertime a nice shaded area is still ideal. Your bunny needs to be protected from wind, rain, and direct sun. A good warm nest box is a must for cold winters and it provides extra protection. You can place straw and dry hay in the nest box to keep your bunny warm. Make sure that the nest box remains clean and dry during the winter months as this will be your bunnies warm shelter to go into. Rabbits do seem to put up better with winter conditions then the heat but your bunny must stay dry or he/she will freeze to death when it gets cold.
During wintertime a nice shaded area is still ideal. Your bunny needs to be protected from wind, rain, and direct sun. A good warm nest box is a must for cold winters and it provides extra protection. You can place straw and dry hay in the nest box to keep your bunny warm. Make sure that the nest box remains clean and dry during the winter months as this will be your bunnies warm shelter to go into. Rabbits do seem to put up better with winter conditions then the heat but your bunny must stay dry or he/she will freeze to death when it gets cold.
What to Know if your bunny is indoors:
When you keep your bunnies indoors things are much simpler as you don't have all the weather issues to deal with. Keep your house temperature below 85 degrees and keep the bunnies cage away from any vents and away from any heating or cooling systems. Also make sure your bunny doesn't have any access to chew on wires or other dangerous objects in the house. If your bunny is indoors you'll want to make sure you clean his/her cage out at least twice a week to keep the smell away.
How to keep your bunny a sweet, loving pet:
1) pet your bunny on its head everyday when you feed him/her and again at night when you give him/her extra hay or oatmeal
2) Make sure you hold your bunny daily for at least ten minutes. You can hold your bunny while your watching tv or a movie or just hanging around the house.
3) Purchase a rabbit harness and pet carrier, like a doggie purse so you can take your bunny out places and keep him/her close.
4) Socialize your bunny with other animals and children
5) Also don't allow your bunny to much freedom to run around without you present, if your bunny gets to much freedom he/she will become more independent and he/she will stop being a pet and will become more wild.
6) love your bunny (: the more love you show your bunny the more affection you will get back.
2) Make sure you hold your bunny daily for at least ten minutes. You can hold your bunny while your watching tv or a movie or just hanging around the house.
3) Purchase a rabbit harness and pet carrier, like a doggie purse so you can take your bunny out places and keep him/her close.
4) Socialize your bunny with other animals and children
5) Also don't allow your bunny to much freedom to run around without you present, if your bunny gets to much freedom he/she will become more independent and he/she will stop being a pet and will become more wild.
6) love your bunny (: the more love you show your bunny the more affection you will get back.
Why bunnies make a great first pet:
1) They are good to teach responsibility
2) small, they don't take up very much space
3) require only light grooming if any
4) bunnies handled properly are very sweet and lovable
5) very cute to look at and watch
6) Bunnies are one of the easiest pets to care for, making them a great pet for families with children or first time pet owners. They are still a responsibility though they are low maintenance.
7) have an average life span of 8 to 10 years
2) small, they don't take up very much space
3) require only light grooming if any
4) bunnies handled properly are very sweet and lovable
5) very cute to look at and watch
6) Bunnies are one of the easiest pets to care for, making them a great pet for families with children or first time pet owners. They are still a responsibility though they are low maintenance.
7) have an average life span of 8 to 10 years
If you have any further questions about your new bunny go to the "Contact Us" tab and fill out the contact sheet and we will get back to you as soon as possible, you may also call or text us at (916) 741-8758
Thank You for choosing to be apart of our family at Top Hops Rabbitry :)
Thank You for choosing to be apart of our family at Top Hops Rabbitry :)